By Derek Swan (@hungry_swan http://thehungryswan.blogspot.co.uk/)
I’ve been the fortunate recipient of vouchers to various cook schools across Scotland in recent years, all of which have been enjoyable but involving a bit of a trek from my home in Pittenweem. I hadn’t been aware of one right in the heart of Fife until being introduced to Jenny Thomson via the Crail Food Festival.
Jenny owns and runs Courses for Cooks from her family home at the edge of the Lomond hills. The classes are held in the kitchen of a former Victorian Manse, where small groups can take full-day or half-day classes across a range of cooking styles and cuisines, benefiting from Jenny’s 20 years’ experience as a profession Chef and Cook.
In advance of her appearance in the Chef’s Demo Theatre at this year’s Crail Food Festival, I had the chance to speak to Jenny about her background, motivations and, of course, about the classes.
D. How long has the cook school been running and how did you start out?
J. After training at Leith’s School of Food & Wine in London, I went on to work as a Private Cook, travelling around Scotland, France, Canada and the USA. After that, I ran the Butterchurn for 15 years, a farm shop, restaurant and craft centre promoting Scottish produce and located in West Fife. Courses for Cooks has been running for 2 years now.
D. From all your travels in your early days, what was your favourite location?
J. Probably France. I worked there at Chalets during Ski Season, so you got to get out for some skiing and prepare food for people who’d really built up an appetite! I’d really recommend it to anyone starting out in their food career.
D. How does the food you prepare now differ from that at the Butterchurn or during your time as a Private Cook?
J. No matter where you are, I think that most people are looking for good, home-cooked food made from fresh, local ingredients treated well. Over the years, some of the trends in cooking and access to ingredients may have changed, but the desire is the same. More recently, people have definitely become more interested in local produce and the economy of home cooking.
D. Who typically attends Courses for Cooks?
J. A wide range, really – students to older people. I think that there are more men than before showing an interest in cooking, maybe looking to take up a hobby in retirement. That could be the Paul Hollywood effect! There’s also an increase in much younger people, perhaps 8 or 9 years old, taking an interest in cooking.
D. And how do you think the wives of the retired gentlemen will take to their sudden interest in cooking?
J. I’m sure that they’ll welcome the help!
D. You’re very kind! And great to hear much younger people taking an interest too.
J. Yes – I think that the younger kids are now benefiting from the increased interest in recent years in cooking and availability of local produce
D. With that increase in interest, there’s also been an increase in the number of cook schools in Scotland – What differentiates Courses for Cooks?
J. We really focus on cooking from scratch and very seasonal cooking. For example, we’ll not just teach how to cook, but how to de-feather and joint a game bird in season. Also, with a maximum of four people in a class, everyone gets a lot of individual attention, working to their pace of learning to make sure everyone gets the most of their time.
D. You offer a wide range of cuisines and cooking styles at your classes. Do you have a cuisine or style of cooking that you’re most passionate about?
J. I like all cuisines, but am most interested in how the change of seasons influences what you cook and eat – from slow cooked curries in winter time to fish and seafood in spring and summer. And I try not to cook the same thing twice, always changing what I eat. Unless it’s practising a dish, which I may do several times over. Then I’ll get ‘not this again’ from the family!
D. They are lucky guinea pigs, I’m sure! What do you think is the most common skill gap that you come across?
J. It’s mainly pastry and cooking with eggs that people struggle with. For example, when it comes to poaching eggs, making soufflés or whisking egg whites to the correct stage, people get scared and make mistakes.
D. Can you give me a recipe to try that works with both? I’ll promise to share my results, whatever the outcome!
J. Yes, of course!
D. And one last thing – what one bit of advice would you give to any aspirational cook, young or old?
J. Never give up. Don’t get put off. Always keep trying.
Jenny Thomson will be appearing at the Chef’s Demos on the 15th June at the Crail Kirk Hall as part of the 2014 Crail Food Festival (http://crailfoodfest.co.uk/2014-events/) . Chef’s Demos run on both 14th and 15th June at 11:45 – 13:00 – 14:15 -15:30 in our 80-seat Chef’s Theatre.
Classes for Cooks run courses throughout the year – bookings can be made at http://www.coursesforcooks.com/article/5/courses
And here’s that recipe:
Leek Souffle Tart
Serves 4 – 5
6oz/175g plain flour
grind of black pepper
1 medium leeks – finely sliced
¼ tsp turmeric
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp flour
2 eggs separated
1 tbsp lemon
1 tbsp parsley
1oz/30g grated parmesan cheese
50ml Greek yogurt, crème fraiche or double cream
- Make the pastry either in a food processor or by hand: combine the flour and butter until the mixture is like crumbs, add the black pepper and egg and bring together to form a ball of dough. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for 20 min in the fridge.
- Set the oven to 200C/400F/gas6
- Roll the pastry out thinly and bake blind in the oven for 15 min or until the edges of the pastry begin to turn golden.
- Sweat the leeks in the olive oil until soft.
- Add the turmeric and flour and cook for a minute.
- Remove from the heat, add the milk and stir well to combine.
- Return the pan to the heat and bring gently to the boil to make a sauce.
- Remove the pan from the heat, allow to cool slightly and add the parmesan cheese, yogurt, parsley, lemon juice and salt and pepper.
- Add the egg yolks and stir to combine.
- Whip the egg whites to stiff peak and fold into the leek mixture.
- Turn the oven down to 180C/350F/gas5 and bake tart for 20 – 30 minutes until set, puffed up and golden brown.
Last year a friend and I packed the car and headed to Crail for the food festival.
The weather was beautiful and this carried on to the Sunday at the Harbour. We did the foraging walk with chef Paul Wedgwood of Wedgwood the Restaurant and Mark Williams from Galloway Wild Foods.
The festival has grown this year with tasting opportunities and a chefs’ theatre on both Saturday and Sunday as well as a wider range of events for children.
One of the tasting/discussions I enjoyed last year was by Edinburgh Gin. As the event this year will be on World Gin day I asked them to share with us a Gin cocktail recipe.
Fill a chilled highball glass with ice cubes, 50ml of Dry Champagne, Prosecco or Cava, 25ml Elderflower Edinburgh Gin and 50 ml of Club Soda. Garnish with a twist of lemon.
As I still had some Elderflower gin and a bottle of Prosecco chilling in my fridge I decided to celebrate my birthday with this cocktail.
I hope the sun shines and some of you can join us on Saturday the 14th of June and Sunday the 15th for The Crail Food festival. Cheers
Who could have failed to notice these wee beauties at the many Scottish foodie events?
When you grow amazing strawberries like Claire and Ross Rennie do on the family farm in Aberdeenshire, besides picking and punneting them, what else can you do? Cover them in chocolate of course. Berry Scrumptious is the brainchild of Claire and Ross Rennie but it doesn’t stop with chocolate-jacketed berries, they also produce fudge and chocolates. Since they started their company back in 2005, they haven’t let the grass grow under their feet.
Like many small companies, innovation comes from necessity, passion or filling a niche, which is where the Rennies new venture has sprung from. Summerhouse Drinks came to fruition (pun intended) because Claire, in her own words, said,
“As I’m always the designated driver when we go out, I noticed that most of the ‘posh’ lemonade sold in Scotland is made in England and a bit of further research with the customers who buy our chocolate, showed that there was a demand for a Scottish made lemonade range. Never one to pass up a good opportunity, we decided to go for it!”
Not that life gave Claire lemons, she couldn’t resist an opportunity to let her creative streak loose and she decided what better way to showcase her drinks than from a summerhouse on the back of a van. Bonkers you might think, yet brilliant.
“We’re making real lemonades and soft drinks with 100% natural ingredients sourced from as close to home as possible. We will have some berry flavours but not enough for it to be called Berry Scrumptious. So we’re calling our new range ‘Summerhouse’ as, let’s face it, you generally need a Summerhouse to be able to enjoy a normal Scottish summer (and escape from the midges at the same time).”
I asked Claire what the biggest hurdle was.
“Finding the right machinery to make our lemonades. It’s very specialist equipment and has a long lead time from the factory to being installed and we didn’t have months and months to wait, we wanted to be launched for this Easter at the latest.”
Product development isn’t a quick process. Claire has been working on the drinks for over a year. Most of that time was spent doing research, writing and rewriting business plans before purchasing their first piece of equipment … a Soda Stream! Claire found that this ordinary piece of kitchen kit was a great way to test out recipes. It soon became apparent that that they needed to try the recipes out on a bigger scale and last December they trundled down to Edinburgh to spend a day at the Brewing Lab of Heriot-Watt University to try out a carbonating and bottling machine.
Since then everything gathered pace with pallets of bottles arriving in December. While most of us were patting our over-stuffed bellies between Christmas and New Year, Ross and his dad dashed off on an overnight jaunt to Keighley to collect some bits of production kit that they had bought only the week before.
They were now the proud owners of tanks, a bottler and carbonator, capper, labeller and a lot of pipes. All this gubbins was plumbed in the kitchen unit that was originally used for storage. New drains were put in, then a new floor and a wet wall.
As if this wasn’t enough, there was branding, label and website design to be done; recipe development; planning a programme of festivals and foodie events to attend.
By April, Claire had three flavours bottled and labelled! The initial range consists of Misty Lemonade (a cloudy version), Scottish Raspberry Lemonade and Hint O’ Mint (a firm favourite with the team) made with lemon juice that has been infused with natural mint leaves. Their first wholesaler started stocking Summerhouse Drinks, which meant that their beverages could be delivered throughout the UK on a weekly basis.
Never one to stand still, once again Claire’s creativity came into its own – getting the funding for the mobile summerhouse that could be driven around Scotland, dispensing lemonades and mocktails at festivals, fairs and foodie events.
One way of funding that has been popular with many small businesses, is crowd funding; this is the route that Claire opted for.
Why crowd funding?
“We decided to crowd fund for our van as we had spent all our resources on purchasing the equipment to make the lemonade and needed some funding. However, our avenues were limited. If you went to the bank or finance company and said ‘I want to build a van that looks like a summerhouse’, I doubt we would have got a positive response.”
This proved to be an excellent resource for finance for the company and within few weeks, Summerhouse Drinks had over 170 contributors, raising almost £5,000. And what do they funders get for their dosh?
“They get a range of rewards depending upon how much they pledge, including discounts on the Berry Scrumptious website, free drinks and VIP invites to events.”
To see how Claire managed to raise her funding and the wee video she made to generate interest in the mobile summerhouse, have a gander at the Bloom VC project page.
I asked Claire, what advice would she give to other small producers who want to diversify?
“Do a lot of good market research first and never stop innovating; new products are the lifeblood of a business.”
If you have an idea, take the plunge and you too could be winning awards like Summerhouse Drinks; they have won the Best New Retail Product for companies with less than 25 employees at the Grampian Food Innovation Awards with the judges liking their Hint O’Mint lemonade. They will soon find out how they got on in the Scotland Food and Drink Excellence Awards. They were one of only three companies shortlisted in the Best Retail Product – Non Alcoholic Drinks section.
Unfortunately, there are no images of the van yet but it will be ready for their first event at The Taste of Grampian on the 7th June and, of course, you’ll be able to see it and try the lemonades at the Crail Food Festival.
If you fancy seeing where Claire’s design inspirations came from, then look no further than her Pinterest board. I’m sure many of us would like one of the gorgeous summerhouses featured in our gardens.
To follow the journey of Summerhouse Drinks stop by the website blog http://berryscrumptious.co.uk/blog/ and to keep up to date with what’s happening with the van, they are on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/Summerhousedrinks
All images © of Berry Scrumptious, reproduced with kind permission.
Seriously serendipitous stroke of luck! How else could one describe my assignment from Crail Food Festival to review the Seriously Good Venison company, coming as it did in the very week I attended a venison cookery masterclass?!
Venison is remarkably healthy for you. It is very low in fat, leaner even than skinless chicken and has less than half the cholesterol. It is also a good source of Omega 3, iron, protein, vitamins, potassium and zinc.
The Seriously Good Venison company is run by Vikki Banks and you can read all about her and her company in last year’s article by Crail Food Festival blogger Karen. You can order Seriously Good Venison online for home delivery, or to collect at farmer’s markets in Perth, Edinburgh and throughout Fife. I caught up with Vikki at the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market to find out what she’s been up to over the past year and, of course, to buy some of her tasty produce now that I know all about cooking venison!
I first asked Vikki where the deer herd are living now, as she had been planning to move them closer to where she lives. They have indeed been moved and are settled nicely into their new home near Cupar in Fife. They have also had their year round grass-fed diet improved with the addition of grain during the winter months. This allows the deer to increase their size, whilst still retaining the same quality of meat that comes from being free-range, grass-fed and additive-free.
The other big development is that the Seriously Good butchery has expanded in Perth and now offers a specialist bespoke butchery service for organic beef, lamb, pork and wild boar. All the carcasses are carefully and expertly matured and butchered, providing complete traceability from their original farm. Vikki has been so delighted by the quality of the lamb that she has introduced Seriously Good Lamb into her own brand, and this is now available by mail order. Plans are afoot to introduce further products into the company’s portfolio but Vikki is wisely taking this slowly so she can be sure of guaranteeing the same Seriously Good quality she is proud of.
I had advance-ordered a couple of cuts of venison and a pile of bones for stock – to collect at the farmer’s market. Whilst chatting to Vikki I noticed she sells her own venison stock too, so I picked her brains on how she makes it. She roasts the bones, then simply simmers them in water overnight. I love that it is so pure with no additives muddying the flavour. I have now made this stock and it is fabulous, like a rich vibrant beef stock with extra flavour. So, for just a couple of quid, you can get about 2kg of Seriously Good Venison bones and make lots of your own stock…
…or you can buy one of Vicky’s pre-made concentrated venison stock pots for about the same price. I also just had to buy one of her cute little venison supper pies to try. It seems a little expensive at £1.55 for one mini raised pie but it is well worth it, as it is chock full of meat and is rich and delicious.
So, what to do with Vikki’s Seriously Good Venison once you get it home? First, a little word of warning if you have never cooked venison before. Raw venison has a slightly gamey smell which, if you are not used to, can make you think it is off – do not worry, all is well!
My first recipe comes from the venison masterclass I recently attended and is published here by kind permission of Craig Wood, chef proprietor of The Wee Restaurant in North Queensferry, Fife.
RECIPE – Carpaccio of Venison
This is a brilliant recipe for the summer, as it only takes a few minutes cooking and then marinates in the fridge for a couple of days.
(Recipe © Craig Wood)
Ingredients (serves 4)
venison loin, trimmed of all fat and sinew (I used a 315g Seriously Good Venison fillet, as this is what Vikki recommended)
½ bunch of fresh coriander
3 red chillies, deseeded (I used orange and yellow chillies, as this is what I had)
2 cloves of garlic, peeled
50ml olive oil (I used cold-pressed rape-seed oil, as I like to use local produce as much as possible)
Generously season the venison with salt & pepper. Quickly sear all over in a very hot frying pan with a little oil. Leave to cool.
Blitz coriander, chillies, garlic & oil together
Coat the venison in the chilli paste and roll up in cling film
Marinate in the fridge for a couple of days
Slice wafer thin & serve (I also drizzled on the remaining marinade)
The venison fillet is so soft it almost melts in the mouth. The flavour is amazing as the meat is quite rare, with the fresh marinade giving a lovely vibrancy and chilli heat. I served it with a simple but pretty plate of the first of the season’s locally grown tomatoes.
Venison is one of the few game products that is available all year-round, so I also wanted to give you a winter recipe. I used a Seriously Good Venison shank for this, as I wanted the extra flavour from the bone marrow, but it would also be good using trimmed venison haunch, which is a little cheaper.
RECIPE – Seriously Good Venison Stew
This recipe is really easy, requiring only about 15 minutes prep. It is a great recipe for cheaper cuts in colder months, as it slow-cooks in the oven for hours warming the kitchen and filling it full of wonderful aromas.
Ingredients (serves 4)
1 carton Seriously Good concentrated venison stock
700g Seriously Good Venison shank
freshly ground sea salt & black pepper
2 tbsp oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
400g chopped tomatoes (tinned is fine)
250ml red wine
1 tsp juniper berries
1) Preheat oven to 200ºC. Mix the concentrated venison stock with boiling water to give 400ml stock.
2) Season the venison with salt & pepper. Heat the oil in a frying pan until very hot and sear the venison all over. Take care searing the side where the flesh is thinner, closest to the bone, as this can burn easily. Place in a casserole dish.
3) Turn the heat down to low-medium and fry the onions for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the stock and scrape pan to de-glaze it. Add the tomatoes, red wine and juniper berries. Bring to the boil and then pour over the venison shank in the casserole dish. Add a lid.
4) Cook in the pre-heated oven for 20 minutes, then turn the heat down to 150ºC. Cook for a further 3-4 hours until tender, turning the shank every 30 minutes. The meat may fall off the bone after a couple of hours – this is fine but do leave the bone in until the end of cooking as it will add extra flavour.
5) Remove the bone and juniper berries, season to taste and serve.
The venison is soft and falling apart, rich with a slightly gamey flavour. To use Vikki’s favourite word when talking about slow-cooked Seriously Good Venison, it is “unctuous” in the best possible sense! It is so tasty that all I served it with was plain boiled potatoes and steamed Savoy cabbage. Delicious!
There are more venison recipes on the Seriously Good Venison website. Many of these were written by former owner and award-winning cookery writer Nicola Fletcher, who will be appearing at the Crail Food Festival, demonstrating in the Cookery Theatre.
Seriously Good Venison will also be featuring at Crail’s Lunch at the Harbour, on Sunday 15th June, where they will be serving venison, beef and lamb burgers.